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laser_cutter_resources

**This is an old revision of the document!**


Introduction

Physical Setup

  • The laser cutter work surface is a max of 200 x 300 mm
  • Cooling: Be certain the water is flowing through the laser to the blue water tank below the cutter.
  • Venting: Be sure the vent fan is blowing air out of the large hose.

Manuals and Instructions

We have modified our laser cutter so that it can take Gcode. You can use any Gcode interpreter that you would like, however we have decided to focus on using Laserweb. We currently have a Youtube video to help get people started with laser web.

Materials

You can buy acrylic of all types and have it delivered from this company: http://www.hazaiya.co.jp/

Specialty materials such as marble, pearl and glitter acrylic: http://www.amy.hi-ho.ne.jp/m-ono/

We might also be able to get scrap acryl for free from Happy Printers in Harajuku. http://happyprinters.jp

Possible Hacks

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/general-laser-engraving-cutting-machine-discussion/138554-cheap-laser-cutter-modifications.html

One hack we desperately need to do is to either remove the original bed, or move the bed height knob to somewhere else. It effectively cuts off 4CM of cutting space on the bed. Also, the screw in the knob must be a factory hack, as it is OBVIOUSLY the wrong screw. With the honeycomb in, you cant even turn the knob a full turn! WTF?!

So, short term hack: Fix the botch screw job Long term hack: MOVE the knob physically, or rip the bed out entirely.

Replacing the board with a GRBL shield (gShield)

A gShield (formerly known has GRBL shield) has been bought in the hope that it can replace the current board. I (Yves) made some promising tests: it has no problem driving the steppers. The laser control is accessible through the power connector. I tagged “LD”, for Laser Drive, on the wire that fires up the laser. It seems to be pushed up to 5V so this means that the laser fires when you force the signal to 0V. The only missing thing I got stuck on was that the Y axis has an optical sensor to detect when it reaches zero. In order to use it, we have to connect to the flat ribbon cable and I could not find a connector for that. I an pretty condfident that the gShield will be able to handle this signal.

On the software side, I did my tests using the universal g-code sender, recommended by ShapeOko (https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender/downloads). You will have to change the serial port speed to 115200 bauds in its settings. It then works like a charm.

Hardware Documentation

Started documenting and reverse engineering the current board. Datasheet can be found here: http://www.3wcad.com/ Our board is the one at the very top (6C6879-LASER-M2) and datasheet is here: http://www.3wcad.com/download/M2%E4%B8%BB%E6%9D%BF%E7%A1%AC%E4%BB%B6%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8C.rar (In Chinese)

Things done: Although pinouts for most connectors are there at page 2, pinout for the flat ribbon cable is nowhere to be found. It basically combines X stepper and XY limit switch headers into one. 5V pin was tricky as it has a diode in between the 5V rail and the pin. Found the pinout and documented it. Now trying to find the cable type (Probably an FFC cable with 12 pins and 1.5 mm pitch, cable marking “awm 80c 60v 20624 vw-1”, only 9 pins are used).

Here are the connector pinouts:

X-Motor-A

Pin 1 is the leftmost pin.

  1. NC
  2. NC
  3. 5V (through diode M7)
  4. Y-L (active low)
  5. X-L (active low)
  6. GND
  7. GND
  8. NC
  9. X-B2
  10. X-B1
  11. X-A2
  12. X-A1

X-Motor-B

Pin 1 is the rightmost pin.

  1. X-B2
  2. X-B1
  3. X-A2
  4. X-A1

Y-Motor

Pin 1 is the rightmost pin.

  1. Y-B2
  2. Y-B1
  3. Y-A2
  4. Y-A1

XY-Limit

Pin 1 is the top pin.

  1. 5V
  2. GND
  3. X-L (active low)
  4. Y-L (active low)
  5. GND

Power

Pin 1 is the leftmost pin.

  1. GND
  2. LO (laser output, active low)
  3. 5V
  4. 5V
  5. 24V-30V
  6. GND
laser_cutter_resources.1527510576.txt.gz · Last modified: 2018/05/28 12:29 by thsadmin